The Kumushtak Gorge in the Bakai-Ata district of the Talas region does not reveal itself immediately. The mountains here do not press down with height but seem to retreat, leaving space for breath. The stones lie as if they were intentionally arranged. The silence is dense, viscous. In it, one hears not a sound but historical memory. Here, fifteen kilometers from the village of Nomadbek, lies the mausoleum of Boz-Tektir Ata - a sacred place rarely mentioned in guidebooks, yet well-known to those who can listen to the land. This is not a tourist "attraction" in the conventional sense. It is a point of intersection of legends, tales, and ancient history.
Boz-Tektir Ata is not located at the top of a mountain or at the bottom in the floodplain of a turbulent river - it "holds the middle," on a practically flat area in a deep gorge. Boz-Tektir Ata is a place where history ceases to be dates, legend - a fairy tale, and the road - a direction on the map. Almost every story about Boz-Tektir Ata somehow refers to the Battle of Talas (Atlah) in 751 - one of the key battles of the early Middle Ages in Central Asia. At that time, the armies of Tang China clashed on the banks of the Talas River with the forces of the Abbasid Caliphate, to which Turkic tribes joined at a crucial moment. Historians write about a strategic turning point and a shift in the balance of power in the region. Popular memory weaves legends - about flight, ambushes, death, and choosing sides.
According to one of the most widespread legends, after the defeat, part of the Chinese army retreated into the gorges of the Talas Valley. An ambush was set up in Kumushtak. Here, in the narrow space between the stones, a fierce battle took place. There were so many dead that they could not be buried according to the ritual - the bodies of the warriors were covered with large stones so that the enemy could not desecrate them, and so that the pursuit could continue.
Another legend takes us even deeper - into mythological time. It tells of three brothers. One was named Bozum, the second - Arstan-Bap Ata, and the name of the third has been erased by time; according to legend, his grave is far away - beyond these lands, in Turkey. Arstan-Bap became a saint in the Fergana Valley, Bozum - here, in Kumushtak. Their fates intertwine again with the Battle of Talas: Bozum, leading a detachment, fell into an ambush and was mortally wounded. His patron was considered to be the golden eagle - a symbol of courage and heavenly protection. When the enemies surrounded him, Bozum hid behind a large rock. And at the moment when it seemed that the outcome was inevitable, the rock seemed to swallow him. The rock took the shape of a sitting eagle - and became what is now known as Boz-Tektir.
In one of the records attributed to the famous Umut moldo in the Talas Valley, it is said that the mausoleum of Boz-Tektir Ata holds the remains of twelve thousand shahids who died for their faith. The number may be symbolic. But the very idea - of mass burial, of the land, of the victims of ancient battles - explains why this place has been perceived as a place of power for centuries. People who come here often remain silent. Some read prayers, others simply sit leaning against a stone. Locals say: here, one does not ask - here, one listens.
People come here: those seeking inner balance, families with difficult fates, individuals trying to rid themselves of addictions, travelers who have lost their life path. It is said that the place "helps the lost" - especially those who have lost control over themselves. This is not a promise of healing, but a belief in the possibility of change.
How to get there: From Talas - towards the Bakai-Ata district. The nearest landmark is the village of Nomadbek. From there to the Kumushtak Gorge is about 15 km. It is better to go in an off-road vehicle or arrange with local drivers. The last section is unpaved and difficult to pass in the rain. A walking approach is possible but requires time and a supply of water.
When to go: The best time is May-June and September. In summer, it is hot and there is almost no shade. In winter, access may be difficult. There is no infrastructure in the gorge itself. Overnight camping (with local permission) or accommodation in guest houses of nearby villages is possible. Comfort is basic.
In 2024, the Nomad.kg team, together with archaeologists from the Hermitage (St. Petersburg), digital archaeologists from Bashkortostan, and scientists from the National Academy of Sciences of Kyrgyzstan, visited the mausoleum of Boz-Tektir Ata. Preliminary findings confirmed the high scientific potential of the site. It is recommended to conduct full-scale research, including archaeological excavations of one of the burials to determine dating, anthropological and cultural characteristics. In the future, in 2026, obtaining an "open sheet" and conducting a scientific expedition is planned. This is a rare case where oral tradition, sacred reverence, and academic science can meet without conflict. Unfortunately, in recent years, the stone with the Arabic inscription has been lost - a reminder of how vulnerable such places are.
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