From the Talas Ala-Tuu ridge, the steppe suddenly ceases to be chaotic. In its body, even, almost stubborn strokes emerge. Stone by stone. Line by line. Bakayyr does not reveal itself immediately: it waits for you to step out of the scale of a human and approach the scale of nomadism, time, memory. In the oral tradition of these places, it is said: the earth remembers those who knew how to speak to it. Here, the conversation was not conducted with words or writing - it was laid out in granite.
Bakayyr is located in the foothills of the Talas Ala-Tuu - in an area where the mountains have not yet closed into gorges, and the steppe has already begun to rise. This is a transitional space: between the plain and the height, between summer pastures and winter encampments. The heights here are moderate, the climate is harsh, with strong winds and sharp temperature fluctuations. In spring, the grass bursts into green, in summer it burns to ochre, and in autumn the steppe becomes almost metallic.
The stone chains of Bakayyr consist of large granite blocks. Some of them weigh several tons. They are laid out in elongated lines - straight or slightly broken, sometimes running parallel, sometimes diverging. These lines do not repeat natural stone scatterings and do not fully obey the logic of slopes. They cross watersheds, emerge onto open plateaus, disappear, and reappear.
From the ground, these structures can easily be mistaken for traces of erosion or old agricultural work. But from above - from the ridge, from a drone, from a mental "bird's eye view" - it becomes clear: nature rarely arranges stone so consistently.
Bakayyr is almost not represented in scientific publications. Systematic archaeological excavations have not been conducted here, and there are no precise datings. It exists in an intermediate state - between archaeology, local history, and oral memory. Local residents know about the stone lines but perceive them as part of the familiar landscape, not distinguishing them from everyday life. Yet the scale, choice of material, and labor-intensive laying elevate these chains beyond the ordinary enclosures for livestock or pasture boundaries. Moving such blocks required collective effort and time - resources that are rarely expended without meaning.
In the context of Central Asia, megalithic structures are often associated with sacred practices, spatial orientation, and transition rituals. They could mark paths, boundaries, zones of power, or seasonal routes. In nomadic culture, the line is often more important than the point: it sets movement, direction, path. Bakayyr invites us to view the foothills of Talas as an archive where history is recorded not by objects, but by the landscape itself.
Here, it is important to go slowly. Walking along the stone chains allows you to feel the scale: the line is not read immediately; it is composed of fragments. The best time for observations is in the morning or during the pre-sunset hours when shadows emphasize the relief and the stone begins to "draw." Climbing to the nearest elevations, one can see how individual chains form a system. These are some of the best points for photography and contemplation, especially in side light.
The contact with local shepherds is also interesting. Their stories rarely provide direct answers but often suggest the right question. For some, these lines are just stones; for others, they are millennia-old traces of humanity. There are no rituals for tourists here, but there is a domestic sacredness: respectful silence, the inappropriateness of loud conversations, a sense that the place observes in response.
The easiest way to reach Bakayyr is by car from Talas, heading towards the foothills of the Talas Ala-Tuu. Part of the road is on dirt paths; after rains, they can be difficult to traverse. Public transport only goes to the nearest villages - from there, it’s on foot or by hitchhiking.
The best time to visit is from May to September. In spring and early summer, the steppe is most expressive; in autumn, it is harsher but visually clean. Access is difficult in winter due to snow and winds. Be sure to take water, sun and wind protection, and warm clothing even in summer. Connectivity is unstable or absent. Navigation is via offline maps and terrain landmarks.
Overnight stays are possible in tents or in nearby settlements. Yurts are found seasonally, with minimal but authentic comfort.
It is important to remember the principles of sustainable tourism: do not dismantle stones, do not leave traces, do not disrupt the integrity of the lines. Bakayyr is vulnerable not because of fragility, but because of invisibility.
One of the shepherds once said: "If a stone lies flat, it means it was placed there for a reason." In this phrase lies the entire philosophy of Bakayyr. Here, one feels the nomadic worldview acutely: the road is more important than the destination, the trace is more important than ownership, memory is more important than explanation.
Bakayyr is important not as a solved riddle or as a checkbox on an itinerary. It is important as an experience of proportion. Here, you understand that the past may not be behind you, but all around. Sometimes, to see history, you just need to rise higher - above the familiar scale, above the desire for immediate answers. And then it becomes clear: humanity knew how to speak to the earth not with words. The millennia-old history here is laid out in stone, and it is still waiting for its explorers.
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